Within the agricultural landscape, Ukrainian vegetable and melon farming has suffered some of the heaviest blows since the onset of the full-scale Russian invasion. We’ve been deprived of the capacity to grow and sell produce in areas temporarily under occupation. Moreover, certain lands remain unfit for cultivation due to ongoing combat, the looming threat of landmines, or the aftermath of the destruction of the Kakhovka Hydroelectric Power Plant.
During the early months of the full-scale war, which coincided with the start of the vegetable planting season, Ukrainians were encouraged to participate in the nationwide “Gardens of Victory” initiative. The goal was to utilise every piece of land effectively to prevent a food crisis in the country. However, Ukraine has not yet been able to return to pre-war vegetable harvest levels. In 2024, a decrease in the production of gross crop products by 8.2% compared to the previous reporting period is expected. Yuriy Lupenko, director of the National Scientific Centre “Institute of Agrarian Economics” and academician of NAAS, mentioned in an interview with The Ukrainian Week that even with these reduced volumes, they are sufficient for the country’s food security and the needs of Ukrainian exports. He also stated that the losses in Ukrainian vegetable production have been partially compensated by increasing vegetable production in the Cherkasy, Dnipro, Kyiv, and Odesa regions.
Despite facing challenges and inadequate support programs, Ukrainian farmers continue to cultivate their land. They plant crops that are in demand on the domestic market, thereby contributing to the country’s food security.
“Farmers can and should earn a livelihood from agriculture. Rural communities can sustain themselves,” remarks Serhiy Marchenko in an interview with The Ukrainian Week. Marchenko, an expert in the labour market and owner of a recruitment agency, took a leap of faith seven years ago by purchasing a home and half a hectare of land in the Poltava region. Starting with carrots, he now cultivates a variety of crops, including heirloom tomatoes, sweet potatoes, sweet corn, watermelons, melons, and strawberries.
“This year, I have a lot of strawberries,” Serhiy wrote on Facebook recently. “They were planted a long time ago. But it took a few years for them to take root, to choose the best varieties, and to cultivate them in the needed quantity. And now the time has come when there are plenty of them, and I can enjoy them without limitations for the first time.”
In the midst of their conversation, the farmer recalls the initial prejudices held against him by the villagers. They would often laugh and say that he would soon tire of working in the garden and that it would eventually become overgrown with weeds. This is a common perception of weekend gardeners, whose enthusiasm typically wanes after a few years. He frequently heard remarks like, “Just try planting it; it won’t grow as easily as you think.”
“I kept planting. Slowly, I introduced tomatoes alongside the carrots, followed by watermelons. It turns out watermelons thrive perfectly in the Poltava region. They grow up to 10 kilograms or more, with a taste reminiscent of those southern ones from our Kherson region. Later, I ventured into growing sweet potatoes and sweet corn. Now, I have a fully operational agricultural production. However, I don’t permanently reside in the village. I tend to the crops in my spare time from my main job. Those who farm more land and live nearby have better-earning prospects. The issue lies in villagers often sticking to traditional crops without considering the quality of the seed material from past harvests. Consequently, they end up with a modest, mediocre yield,” explains the farmer.
“Remember: seed is the key to growing the best crops”
Seed is the cornerstone for your future harvest, regardless of the crop you choose to cultivate. Currently, Serhiy Marchenko partners with three seed producers: Enza Zaden Ukraine, Nunhems, and Spark Seeds. He nurtures seedlings in greenhouses, ensuring they receive the necessary light and warmth to thrive and remain viable for transplantation into open ground.
Producing high-quality seedlings at home on a windowsill is nearly impossible. Without proper care, the plants lose their healthy stem structure, resulting in reduced fruit yield compared to their potential.
“Early spring brings joy in the city, but it’s not so welcomed in the village. Why? It arrives, teasing both people and nature, only for frost to linger until summer. Seedlings, patiently waiting in the greenhouse, are eager to touch the soil. Just a few days ago, I planted sweet corn; it’s low-maintenance,” says Serhiy Marchenko.
Despite having limited land under cultivation, the farmer prioritises technological advancements. “This season, I invested in a small cultivator for managing rows,” he explains. Reflecting on his past, he recalls, “Once [in childhood], we had four gardens simultaneously, and I doubted I’d make it to 10th grade. Two of them were on uncultivated land overrun with couch grass… Tackling weeds with a cultivator instead of a hoe makes gardening about four times easier.”
Tasty tomatoes simply don’t make it to supermarket shelves
Serhiy Marchenko primarily markets his produce through social media channels and fulfils some orders for the Armed Forces. Last year, he conducted trial shipments of cherry tomatoes to retail chains. This year, he anticipates a significant yield of sweet potatoes. Considering the scale, he may venture into retail sales, as he doubts that demand from his Facebook network alone will suffice.
However, he approaches the idea of collaborating with major supermarkets cautiously. He notes that such partnerships necessitate offering a standardised product with a good shelf life, where taste often takes a backseat.
“My philosophy is that food should be flavorful. Unfortunately, the most delicious options often don’t make it onto supermarket shelves. When you purchase a tomato from a retail chain, you’re getting something visually appealing and uniform, but essentially plastic in taste.”
When faced with choosing between portability and taste, manufacturers often prioritise portability. Consequently, delicious tomatoes rarely make it to supermarket shelves because they lack the longevity required for storage. Take, for instance, Serhiy’s own deliberations on what to cultivate. Now, with the “Sakura” tomato variety, he’s had numerous customers remark that they’ve never tasted a better tomato.
Nevertheless, a recent addition to supermarket offerings is apple-carrot juice, featuring carrots sourced from Serhiy Marchenko’s farm. This collaborative effort involves the farmer, the HeroCar charitable foundation, and the Ukrainian juice manufacturer Galicia. A batch of 150 thousand 200-gram juice packs has hit the market. Proceeds from the sales will be directed towards acquiring pickups for the Armed Forces of Ukraine.
